This Spot Has Found a Way to Legally Cook Traditional Lamb Barbacoa in Texas

Emilio Vargas wanted to play high school football in Texas. His father, Javier Vargas, wanted the best for his son. As a lawyer, Javier had the means to fulfill Emilio’s wish, so he arranged for the sixteen-year-old to leave Mexico City to stay with family in Georgetown and play at East View High School. Javier and the rest of the Vargas family soon joined him. Because Javier’s Mexican attorney license didn’t transfer to the U.S., he had to take other jobs to support his family. He worked in restaurants and construction. Emilio kept bringing up the traditional Central Mexican Hidalgo-style barbacoa de borrego (lamb) he pined for—he couldn’t find it anywhere nearby. Javier, whose father taught him how to make barbacoa when he was eight,…

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