Music, media and entertainment---how you want,
when you want, where you want.
S M T W T F S
1
 
2
 
3
 
4
 
5
 
6
 
7
 
8
 
9
 
 
 
 
 
 
15
 
16
 
17
 
18
 
19
 
20
 
21
 
22
 
23
 
24
 
25
 
26
 
27
 
28
 
29
 
30
 
31
 
 
 
 
 

Run, Don't Walk, for This Pasta Inspired by Jamaican Rundown

DATE POSTED:September 17, 2019
SAVEUR
//www.saveur.com/spaghetti-with-shrimp-rundown-sauce-recipe">Get the recipe for Spaghetti with Shrimp Rundown Sauce »</a>
Get the recipe for Spaghetti with Shrimp Rundown Sauce » (Jenny Huang/)

When chef Nina Compton stopped by the SAVEUR test kitchen recently, she helped us see rundown—a traditional Jamaican seafood and coconut milk stew—in a whole new light. The hearty, stick-to-your-ribs dish is often served for breakfast with potatoes, rice, or breadfruit throughout the Caribbean. But Compton—who hails from St. Lucia and came up through New York and Miami's fine dining world before opening her acclaimed New Orleans restaurant Compère Lapin—had something else in mind.

While the menu at Compère Lapin is peppered with Caribbean classics that speak to Compton's roots, including conch croquettes, jerk chicken, and curried goat, she also draws deeply on her French and Italian training. Dirty rice gets packed and fried into crispy arancini; that goat curry is tossed with pillowy sweet potato gnocchi; and shrimp rundown is used to dress a tangle of fresh scialatelli pasta. Fragrant with lemongrass, ginger, and citrus, with a whisper of peppery heat, the rosy coconut stew has the familiar look and feel of Italian-American vodka sauce, but with all the tropical richness of curry.

Compton's recipe starts with a near mountain of raw shrimp shells. It's no secret that we do our best to run a zero-waste test kitchen here at SAVEUR—no small feat, considering the scale and variety of recipes we're constantly developing. Part of that effort includes my becoming somewhat of a shrimp-shell hoarder. Unless you're buying them live, nearly all shrimp is flash-frozen on the boat—the "fresh" stuff at the fish counter is typically thawed for convenience. I find I get fresher results by buying large freezer bags of shell-on shrimp and thawing only what I need. When recipes call for shelled shrimp, I peel before using and save the shells in a large, zip-top freezer bag—and I encourage you to do the same. Once the bag is full, it's time to make a batch of creamy shrimp bisque, shrimp salt, seafood gumbo—or Compton's incomparable pasta with shrimp rundown sauce. Here's how she makes it (her rundown, if you will).

Get the recipe for Spaghetti with Shrimp Rundown Sauce »

Save Your Shells

A whopping five cups of shrimp shells serve as the base of the stock.
A whopping five cups of shrimp shells serve as the base of the stock. (Jenny Huang/)

Restaurants often save shells from crustaceans like shrimp, lobster, and crab; their brittle exoskeletons lend flavor, body, and richness to stocks and sauces. Always buy shell-on shrimp and save the shells in the freezer for your next batch of rundown sauce.

Sauté the Shells with Aromatics

Ginger, lemongrass, and habanero chile flavor the shells.
Ginger, lemongrass, and habanero chile flavor the shells. (Jenny Huang/)

Toast the shells in a splash of olive oil just until they turn pink, then add ginger, chile, and lemongrass. While ginger and lemongrass are not native to the Caribbean, they grow in abundance there and are often incorporated into local dishes and drinks.

Bruising the ginger and lemongrass with the side of your knife before chopping helps to break down the ingredients’ fibrous structure and bring out their fragrance. A fiery chile or two adds peppery brightness to the rich and creamy sauce; Scotch bonnets are traditional in Jamaican rundown, but Compton calls for habaneros, which are sometimes easier to find. Either works, or if you’re spice-shy, feel free to leave the chiles out entirely.

Build Flavor with Tomato Paste

Tomato paste deepens the flavor of the sauce and helps give it an alluring rosy hue.
Tomato paste deepens the flavor of the sauce and helps give it an alluring rosy hue. (Jenny Huang/)

A scoop of tomato paste adds both sweetness and a welcome note of acidity to the sauce; it also helps the shrimp shells break down more quickly, contributing body and flavor to the stock. Timing is key here: Stir in the tomato paste after the aromatics are toasted, and just before adding the coconut milk. Allowing the paste to brown and caramelize will mute the sauce’s rosy tint.

Enrich with Coconut Milk

Coconut milk is used to enrich traditional Jamaican rundown—and Compton’s riff on the dish.
Coconut milk is used to enrich traditional Jamaican rundown—and Compton’s riff on the dish. (Jenny Huang/)

The key ingredient in a classic rundown is coconut milk—and the same is true for Compton's sauce. Use a full-fat, unsweetened version—the Thai varieties that come in a cardboard carton) are minimally processed and have the smoothest texture, but canned coconut milk also works. Just make sure not to buy a low-fat version. Add 8 cups of water, bring the mixture up to a low boil, then reduce the temperature to maintain a strong simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is concentrated in flavor and reduced by about a third.

Marinate the Shrimp

Three types of citrus zest—lemon, lime, and orange—infuse the shrimp with tons of flavor.
Three types of citrus zest—lemon, lime, and orange—infuse the shrimp with tons of flavor. (Jenny Huang/)

While the stock simmers, marinate the shrimp with plenty of olive oil and fresh citrus zest. The shrimp will cook only briefly in the rundown sauce, so infusing them with a bit of flavor early in the game lends the dish more complexity. Compton favors a mix of lemon, lime, and orange zest, but feel free to use whatever citrus you have on hand.

Finish the Pasta and Shrimp in the Sauce

Stir and toss the pasta and shrimp in the sauce until both are just cooked through.
Stir and toss the pasta and shrimp in the sauce until both are just cooked through. (Jenny Huang/)

Strain the shrimp stock into a large, heatproof liquid-measuring cup, pressing on the solids with a ladle or the back of a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Transfer 2 cups of the stock to a large, deep skillet, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the spaghetti (Compère Lapin makes their pasta in house, but parcooked dry spaghetti also works well) and marinated shrimp, and cook, tossing frequently until the pasta and shrimp are cooked through, and the sauce is thickened and very creamy, similar to vodka sauce.

Brighten with Fresh Herbs

Scatter a trio of fresh herbs—mint, scallions, and basil—on top of the pasta just before serving.
Scatter a trio of fresh herbs—mint, scallions, and basil—on top of the pasta just before serving. (Jenny Huang/)

Fresh herbs cut through the richness of the rundown sauce; a mixture of mint, scallions, and basil nod to the dish’s more tropical flavors, but once again, use what you’ve got! Parsley and chives will also get the job done. Since the sauce is pretty decadent, serve with a simple green salad on the side.

And to drink? Compton suggests pairing this creamy pasta with a medium-bodied white wine, such as chardonnay.

SAVEUR

Mashups and APIs