The Best Fries I’ve Had at a Barbecue Joint Take Three Days to Make

Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi remembers traveling from his home in Columbia, Missouri, to Kansas City as a boy. As Muslims, his family kept to a strict halal diet at home, but when they traveled, the rules were relaxed. “Back then, there were literally zero halal options at any restaurant,” he says. They usually sought out beef, and he was fond of the brisket at Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ (now Joe’s Kansas City Barbeque). As halal options became more plentiful over time, the family stopped eating non-halal. Abdul-Kafi recalls the burnt ends he ate as a fourteen-year-old with a unique sort of reverence, because it would be another fifteen years before he would eat barbecue again.In 2019, Abdul-Kafi was living in the Bay Area of California, where he had…

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