Grilled Brisket—Gasp—Is This BBQ Joint’s Specialty

Texas is home to a multitude of barbecue joints that meld traditionally smoked meats with cuisines from around the world. The Egyptian-Texan mix of KG BBQ, in Austin, is widely known; Khói Barbecue, in Houston, takes inspiration from Vietnamese dishes; and Smoke ’N Ash BBQ, in Arlington, might be the world’s only Ethiopian smokehouse. One would assume Kelly’s Cambodian BBQ, in Fort Worth, is built on a similar model, but there’s a big difference. “We don’t smoke anything,” co-owner Kelly Vorn said. “We don’t have the patience.” Fear not, barbecue lovers—you’ll still find brisket here.Spotting two portable charcoal grills sitting under a vent hood behind the counter was a surprise, but then again, I’d just walked into a liquor store to order Cambodian barbecue. A…

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