I Can’t Wait to Go Back to This BBQ Newcomer in San Antonio

Ed Koehler never imagined he’d become a pitmaster when he first arrived at Dondo’s BBQ. Owner and chef Andrew Arredondo was trying to get the restaurant open on San Antonio’s West Side, and the city’s health department required an enclosure for his thousand-gallon steel smoker. Koehler, a general contractor and welder, is married to one of Arredondo’s cousins, so Arredondo asked for his help to get the space into compliance. In the two weeks it took for the build-out, the pair cooked together, figuring out how to get the most out of a smoker that was new to both of them. Despite Koehler’s lack of barbecuing experience, Arredondo asked him to join the team, and he’s been smoking meats at the restaurant since it opened…

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