Le Calamar May Have the Best Prix Fixe Menu in Austin Right Now

A good dining deal is a rare and beautiful find in present-day Austin. To be clear, by “a good deal,” I don’t mean “rock-bottom prices.” I’m talking about a meal that’s completely worth the cash, both in terms of quality and quantity. And at Le Calamar, a new South First spot that specializes in Texan cuisine with a French accent, I found a prix fixe menu that, while not objectively cheap, felt like a total steal. 

Le Calamar is something of a do-over project, as the team behind the restaurant – Claudia Lee and Richard Hargreave – previously operated Underdog, the Korean-ish natural wine bar that used to occupy this space. Underdog got rave reviews from local critics and content creators, but its appeal was always somewhat niche. Lee and Hargreave wanted to reimagine the location as more of a neighborhood hangout (but still with excellent food and an ambitious beverage program), and the result is Le Calamar. 

Visually, the new concept features some distinct differences. The Le Calamar color scheme is much sexier than Underdog’s clean and bright aesthetic; while it still has the former’s wide windows and abundant natural light, the New Nordic blond wood and white tiles are replaced by deep green walls, tufted banquettes, and wall hangings that reflect the Texan influence: framed paintings of cacti, a cowboy hat hanging from a hook, and so on. But I wouldn’t pigeonhole Le Calamar into the “date spot” restaurant category. There’s a casual and convivial vibe here – friendly servers who recognize repeat guests, neighbors wearing yoga pants and carrying workout bags, and families with small children are all present and accounted for. 

Credit: Clay Grier

The entrance to Le Calamar leads through the restaurant’s charming boutique wine shop, an Underdog feature that carries through to the new concept. This led me to instantly assume that its bar program would be a formidable one, and I wasn’t mistaken. The vibrant international wine list includes a number of natural and low-intervention options for people like me who live for a funky pour, but the primary focus of the wine program is to provide glasses and bottles that pair nicely with Le Calamar’s food. I particularly enjoyed an orange wine from France’s Loire Valley that had enough substance and nuance to carry me through my entire prix fixe meal (more on that shortly). As far as cocktails go, the program streamlines its list into three categories: Martinis, Manhattans, and Mezcal. The Classic Martini – which only costs $10 during happy hour – is beautifully mixed (if a bit heavy on the vermouth), served ice-cold and garnished with a twist. The Manhattan section highlights Texan whiskey and uses ingredients like Amargo Vallet (a bitter Mexican amaro) and house-made cherry soda to liven up the usual Manhattan formula, while the Mezcal section includes both expected items like a mezcal marg and more inventive twists like the Cafe con Amargos, featuring smoky mezcal, cold brew, a fragrant pomegranate liqueur, and a touch of citrus and anise. 

Chef Casey Wall comes to Le Calamar from celebrated kitchens in NYC and Australia, and he’s keen to merge his technical French training with the big flavors and hearty dishes expected among Texas diners. That’s why the menu features everything from oysters with gumbo mignonette to a 24-ounce lamb chop to super-sized chicken wings. Le Calamar’s offerings change on a constant basis to keep up with seasonality, so even if you become a regular, you’ll always find something new to try. And if you’re overwhelmed by your choices and don’t want to miss anything, I strongly recommend opting for the prix fixe menu.

Given the sheer quantity of food, the assertive yet harmonious flavors, and the fact that the menu provides a clear snapshot of Le Calamar as a whole, I can’t think of an Austin prix fixe with a better value than this one. 

The prix fixe runs for $77 per person, and your entire table must choose to participate. That price gets you four courses, and the courses may include multiple dishes. The kitchen pulls the prix fixe courses directly from the regular dinner menu, so it’s a fantastic way to sample what the restaurant has to offer. My prix fixe spread consisted of a rich and briny fresh Gulf oyster with a tangy and aromatic mignonette; a crudo with clean-tasting and well-sliced snapper and a bold tomato sauce; a zingy dill and cucumber salad that will appeal to anyone with a nostalgic love for Vlasic pickle spears; tender and buttery snapper bathed in a complex molé-like almond sauce; a crisp salad with feathery greens and a Dijon-forward vinaigrette; perfectly cooked steak au poivre with a lot of black pepper punch and an almost mushroom-ish level of umami; pommes paillasson (which basically serve as a hashbrown sponge for all of that decadent au poivre sauce); and a rich and creamy, albeit a little icy, peach sorbet.

Le Calamar does not cut corners when it comes to its prix fixe portion sizes; I left my dinner with to-go boxes for almost every course. $77 is certainly a splurge for many diners, but given the sheer quantity of food, the assertive yet harmonious flavors, and the fact that the menu provides a clear snapshot of Le Calamar as a whole, I can’t think of an Austin prix fixe with a better value than this one. 

Gnocchi Parisienne Credit: Chad Wadsworth

In Le Calamar’s short life span to this point, a few dishes have emerged as staple items that will withstand any seasonal menu shifts. Gnocchi Parisienne is a prime example; the gnocchi features a crisp brown exterior and a tender inside, while the accompanying butter-and-herb sauce is delicate and well-salted. The restaurant also makes a very French steak tartare with caper and Dijon flavor, but this dish allows the high-quality beef to retain plenty of texture and character. The tartare is served with house-made crackers that are draped over the top of the meat, a bizarre plating choice that obscures the view of the very pretty tartare. But here’s my pro tip: Order a side of salty and savory beef tallow fries and use them to scoop up the tartare. You’re welcome. 

It’s hard for restaurateurs to let go of a concept and embrace something totally new. But Le Calamar proves that this risk can pay off tremendously, and based on my own experiences here – and the happy faces I saw at other tables as I departed – this space seems destined to become a neighborhood classic in record time. 

Le Calamar 1600 S. First #100 Le-Calamar.com

The post Le Calamar May Have the Best Prix Fixe Menu in Austin Right Now appeared first on The Austin Chronicle.