Smoked Chicken Is Texas Barbecue’s Secret Joy

Chicken is the most mysterious protein in Texas barbecue. Unlike with brisket, ribs, or pulled pork, whose naked form on butcher paper reveals much about its quality at just a glance, a smoked chicken’s condition remains veiled by its skin. Sure, a glossy sauce or pebbly rub can provide some clues, but you must dismantle a bird to find out whether it’s succulent or (the horror) desiccated.Many value-minded customers are willing to take that risk, especially when the cost of beef is at an all-time high. Next to eye-popping brisket prices, roughly $8 to $12 for a half chicken is attractive. (The most I’ve ever paid for a half chicken at a Texas barbecue joint was $42, which is certainly more comparable to brisket.) But…

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